African Lion…Rawr Rawr Rawr

Okay, first of all, sorry for being M.I.A…(1) Its been pretty hectic around here and (2) I have for some reason lost my patience with blogging. Even when I have nothing to do but sit around and read I haven’t been able to summon the  motivation to write. But here is my valiant attempt at catching everyone up with all that’s been going on here in Morocco.

At the beginning of April, me and eight other PCVs from the Agadir-Massa-Tata province of Morocco participated in a program called African Lion. On an overarching level, African Lion is a 10-day program  that partners the Moroccan military forces with U.S. counterparts in the largest bi-lateral training exercise on the African continent.  African Command states that this exercise is “designed to improve interoperability and mutual understanding of the U.S. and Moroccan military tactics, techniques, and procedures.”

In addition to the military training aspect of African Lion, there was a five-day humanitarian aid program that again partnered U.S. and Moroccan forces.  Humanitarian Civil Assistance, or HCAs as they were called among the military personal, provided free on-site medical clinics in specialties such as general medicine, dermatology, pediatrics, gynecology, ear, nose and throat, ophthalmology, dental, and more. Working alongside the Utah State Medical Command, Utah Army National Guard, and the Royal Moroccan Military, Peace Corps volunteers were enlisted as translators in the local dialect of Moroccan Arabic and the Berber languages.

[Side Note: This is the first time in the history of Peace Corps Morocco that volunteers have worked alongside the US military. Generally, the organization prefers to keeps itself separated from the military in order to avoid confusion among host country nationals over the nature and purpose of Peace Corps].

Everyday for five days our group of the aforementioned organizations left the military hub in Agadir at 5:00am and set out for a previously notified Moroccan village. The HCAs [which we set up at a different village each day] began letting in patients each morning at 7:00am and finished sometime between 5:00pm/6:00pm every night. Over the course of those five days, HCA doctors were able to provide medical care and prescriptions for over 5,000 patients.

Initially, we as PCVs were uncertain how we were going to effectively contribute to this project with no medical training. I personally envisioned us sitting around, emptying garbage, going on coffee runs, and doing all the silly and/or dirty jobs that trained professionals usually have assistants or secretaries to handle. However, first day on the job we each partnered with a specialty and were put to work!

I was assigned to Ophthalmology with Major Ken Lord. After an brief initial meet and greet, he put me to work setting up the exam equipment, sorting eye glasses, and organizing patients. As soon as the gates opened I was immediately busy with the triage of patient ailments, translating for the two National Guard members giving the eye exams, and translating for Major Lord as he performed inter-eye exams. I don’t think I even sat down that first day as I attempted to prove my worth to the project…This paid off the next day when Major Lord requested my assistance in ophthalmology for the rest of the week [rather than having us rotate specialties as previous planned]. From then on out, I was taught how to give initial eye exams, how to dilate/ examine pupils, and of course translated for patients during inter-eye exams.

Crazy/ Gross Story & Picture Alert: On the last day that I worked the HCAs, we had a patient come into Ophthalmology smelling strongly of urine and human feces; it was clear that this man had been living on the streets for quite sometime and had exceedingly poor hygiene. He came in complaining of itchy eyes and blurred vision, and after an initial eye exam was told he did not need glasses but rather needed to see Major Lord for a microscopic exam. As Dr. Lord began his examination, he immediately told me to stand far back and bleach everything that has come into contact with this particular patient. It turns out that this man had pubic lice that began as a sexually transmitted disease but because of his hygiene and lifestyle as spread across his whole body to his eyes. In the picture below the white balls are in fact egg sacs, and from the microscope you could actually see the lice moving across this man’s eyelashes and eyebrows. At that point Major Lord noted that while he had heard of this happening, he has only actually seen the condition in his text books from medical school. Lucky us.

This opportunity was a turning point for me in my Peace Corps service and an experience I will never forget. Over the course of five days, I not only participated in a once in a lifetime project but also changed my irrational overly critical opinion of the U.S. military. As a peace loving idealist I have always had an extremely negative outlook on the activities and actions of our service men and women; however I failed to see that there are numerous ways in which individuals participate in the U.S. armed service. I met an array of interesting, worldly, enthusiastic, caring individuals, none of whom fit neatly into my gun happy, war mongering, close-minded conservative stereotype. I have a new appreciation for the men and women who serve the U.S.A. and will in the future attempt to reserve passing such extreme judgments and generalizations.

Because of our positive contribution to the project, those organizing African Lion 2013 have already requested that Peace Corps volunteers be involved again as assistants and translators. Of course I hope to participate again next year as this was an unforgettable experience and a rare opportunity that has positively affected me more than anticipated.  Below is a link to an article specifically about the HCA portion of African Lion 2012.

http://www.dvidshub.net/news/87053/utah-state-medical-command-provides-humanitarian-civil-assistance-moroccan-villages-during-african-lion-2012#.T925a7VPtIF

My Eye :)

☮ & ♥ [& support our troops] from Morocco!

Murals in Tata

At the end of March I participated in a mural painting project in Tata. The volunteer in that city wrote a small grant for the supplies, enlisted volunteer help, and allowed the children in her dar chebab to design and paint alongside PCVs.

Finished Mural

Finished Mural

Some of Mari’s kids at the Dar Chebab

PCVs

☮ & ♥ from Morocco

VSN, IST, 39 Crazies…and The Big, Huge, Five Mile Move!

At the end of February I participated in a VSN training, VSN standing for “Volunteer Support Network.” During this three day instruction we we’re taught how provide support for fellow volunteers through active listening and “action plans.” In Morocco, and Peace Corps in general [I assume], support is very limited for volunteers. When you say to family in the states, “today was rough,” or “I can’t stand this constant harrassment anymore,” their immediate response is…

“come home then!”

Com’on, we all know I am not coming home! And as any volunteer will tell you, this is not something we want to hear, it doesn’t help calm us down, nor does it assist with our already delicate emotional state. In fact, it personally makes me feel alone, lonely, sad, and more often than not, angry. Similarly, we clearly can’t complain to our Moroccan friends or counterparts about our frustrations for most of our hardships stem from the culture or the country itself.

What it all comes down to is this…we, Peace Corps Volunteers, are outsiders, living in a strange place, and only other PCVs can truly understand the hardships we experience on a day-to-day basis.

I know, I know…I chose this job, I chose this life…but that doesn’t mean living it is any easier.

Back to the point, VSN training teaches volunteers better ways to support and encourage our peers through their inevitable ”lows.” It was an awesome [for lack of better word] learning experience, and in fact the best training i’ve received in country thus far. After being “VSN trained” we are put onto a list that is distributed to everyone in country. Those people who are VSN trained [in theory] gladly and unquestioningly offer their ears to listen, their shoulders to cry on, and their unwavering support of their fellow outlanders in Morocco.

My commitment to and belief in the importance of VSN led me to run for committee representative, a position that myself and two others from my stage were elected to by our region-mates.

Shortly after VSN, our week-long In-Service-Training was held in the Northern beach town of Mehdiya. Our training courses consisted of grant writing workshops, classroom management, team building, and many other sessions that ranged from mind numbing and useless, to fun and helpful. The best part for us was that this was the first time since November that our entire group of 39 has been in the same place, at the same time. Meaning…it was loud, messy, inebriated chaos.

As a third year volunteer pointed out to me at IST, volunteers can’t drink or smoke in their sites for fear of losing the respect and support of their communities and counterparts. Therefore, take us all out of our sites, put us together in a small compound [on the beach no less] and excessive everything will ensue!

Excessive drinking, smoking, hugging, yelling, gossiping, crying, laughing, singing, eating, etc. Its no wonder we get in trouble…I say, poor planning on the part of the administration!

Nooo, I’m [kind of] kidding, in my opinion it wasn’t just that we we’re released from our cages for a week, but because my stagé of 39 are each fun, carefree, warm-hearted individuals…we have such a strong bond and we outwardly care so much about eachother that at events such as IST I find myself attempting to make every minute, possibly every second as memorable as possible. I hold on to each of my stagé-mates for dear life when we are together because living in the “bled” is hard…and lonely…and at times miserable. Nonetheless, knowing that I have 38 other remarkable people suffering and triumphing along with me is enough to keep me focused on my work, and out of bed each morning.

After IST, “The Big Move” finally happened! Although the scale of the move downsized a bit…I only moved about five miles from my old site to my souq town: Ouled Teima [also known as Hwara or 44]. My main justification for this move was so that I could focus my service on working with the orphanages in Morocco instead of teaching English in the Dar Chabeb. My first dabble in social work was during college in Los Angeles where I worked for a at-risk-youth-center called My Friends Place. It was this experience combined with my work in South Africa that initiated my request for a site change.

Why can’t I just take a taxi or bike five miles to work each day instead of enduring the physical and administrative hassle of moving?

Well, as a woman, wandering around Morocco at night isn’t the smartest of ideas, and if I wanted any actual interaction with the children in the orphanage I would have to be there late, after school got out and prayer/ dinner was finished. So I moved! And as my work load has changed dramatically, I will give a quick overview of the new stuff going on here in Morocco…

  1. My primary assignment will be to work in the orphanage here in Ouled Teima. So far we have discussed work on revising the diet and nutrition provided by the center, creation of more effective adoption strategies, and completion of general administrative work that needs attention.
  2. Physical Education: I will be teaching physical education, twice a week, to the girls in the orphanage. Currently the boys take classes at the soccer center; however, the girls are not allowed there and it is the desire of the organization to keep separate the boys and girls classes.
  3. Library Project: My site mate and I have written a grant to set up a library in the orphanage complex, complete with new tables, chairs, a librarian’s desk, and BOOKS BOOKS BOOKS in Arabic, French, and English. [We were also recently told that we will be receiving full funding for the project much sooner than we had originally projected].
  4. Playground/ Sustainable Garden Project/Grant [also for the orphanage].
  5. English Classes: As a secondary project, I will be teaching English twice a week at the Dar Taliba. This a boarding house for girls who attend school in Ouled Teima centre but whose families live elsewhere in the region.
  6. American Culture: Myself and Ruth [a volunteer in the village next to mine] will be participating in round-table-talks on American culture at the university in Agadir with our current Arabic professor and his English students.
Alright, that’s all for now! More news on work related stuff to come as I figure out life here in my new town! and P.S. To the Benge & McIntosh families, both your daughters are alive and well and keeping me sane with all of their INSANE stories! OOOooOo and Happy 21st birthday to Tara! :)

☮ & ♥ & a little bit of insanity from Morocco.

Happy Lonely PCV Awareness Day!

Okay, I promise to stop posting silly stuff, but this one made me very happy so I had to share!

“It’s Valentine’s Day!  A day when we celebrate friendship, love, and romance.  Through the years here at the National Peace Corps Association, we’ve heard countless stories of Peace Corps romance.  The couples that met at the airport on the way to training.  The couples that met while serving. The Peace Corps Volunteers that fell in love with a host country national.  And the Returned Peace Corps Volunteers that connected back here in the States, discovering that the shared bond of Peace Corps service was the spark that led to a relationship.

Peace Corps is a life-changing experience that develops a unique set of skills and attributes.  So it goes without saying:  Returned Peace Corps Volunteers make GREAT dates.  And just to prove it, we’ve started a list.

12 reasons to date a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer:

  1. We can woo you in multiple languages. Who else is going to whisper sweet nothings to you in everything from Albanian to Hausa to Quechua to Xhosa? That’s right. Only a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer.
  2. We’re pretty good dancers. Yeah, we don’t like to brag, but after 27 months in Latin America or Africa we know how to move it.
  3. We’ll eat anything. Seriously. No matter how bad your cooking, Returned Peace Corps Volunteers have had worse and will eat it with nary a blink. Sheep’s eyeball? Water buffalo gall bladder? Grasshoppers? Bush rat? Bring it.
  4. We know all about safe sex, thanks to our very thorough Peace Corps health training. In fact, there’s a chance that we’ve stood unblushingly in front of hundreds of villagers and demonstrated good condom technique with a large wooden phallus.
  5. We’ll kill spiders for you. Well, actually, we’ll nonchalantly scoop them up and put them out of sight.  Same goes for mice, geckos, frogs, snakes. Critters don’t faze Returned Volunteers.
  6. We have great date ideas: wandering a street market, checking out a foreign film, taking in a world music concert, volunteering…. Romantic getaway? Our passport is updated and our suitcase is packed. With us, life is always an adventure.
  7. We like you for “you”… not your paycheck. Especially if we are freshly back from service, a local joint with “character” will win out over a pretentious eatery.  Living in a group house? No problem. Does it have running hot water? What luxury!
  8. You won’t get lost when you’re with a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer. Navigating local markets on four continents, we’ve honed an uncanny sense of direction. Or else we’ll ask for directions. We’re not afraid to talk to “strangers.”
  9. Waiting for a late train or bus? Don’t worry, we’ve been there, done that. We can share lots of funny stories about “the bus ride from hell” that will make the time go quickly and put it all into perspective.
  10. Our low-maintenance fashion style. Returned Peace Corps Volunteer guys are secure in their manhood and don’t mind rocking a sarong. Women often prefer flip flops to high heels. We don’t spend hours in front of a mirror getting ready to go out.
  11. Marry us, and you won’t just get one family — you’ll get two! When we refer to our “brother” or “mom,” you’ll want to be certain we’re talking about our American one or our Peace Corps one. You might even get two wedding ceremonies, one in the U.S. and one back in our Peace Corps country.
  12. And last but not least, we aren’t afraid to get dirty.”

☮ & ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ from Morocco!

The All-Encompassing Bucket!

The other day I was skyping with my mom when we got on the topic of my showering situation here in Morocco. It was during that conversation that I showed her my 3-in-1 bucket: used for showering, flushing my toilet, and washing my clothes. She thought it was hilarious and furthermore told me that I should write a blog entry about the elusive bucket…so here it goes! In my site, I do have running water but the pressure is so low that installing a shower head and hot water heater would be both expensive and impractical; so like most other volunteers I have just gone the bucket route…

Bath-time Bucket: In order to bathe I simply boil a large pot + a tea kettle amount of water on my gas stove, put both, along with a large portion of cold water into my bucket and then use a cup to pour the water over myself in my bathroom…you know, the traditional bucket bathing way. Usually, if I keep my bathroom door closed the room gets nice and steamy thereby maintaining a pretty comfortable temperature. Also because it never gets too too cold in my site, I have yet to feel resentment towards my bucket!

Toilet-Flushing Bucket: When I’m not planning on bathing, I use the same large bucket, fill it to the brim with water, and leave in my bathroom to use when I need to flush my turkish toilet. The turkish toilet is basically a hole in the ground with a large porcelain squatty thingy over it! In order to flush the toilet you have to dump water down the hole after using it, this then pushes the dirty water out and leaves [debatably] clean water in its stead. Normally, the faucet in the bathroom is used to fill a small bucket that is left in the bathroom for this specific purpose; however, as I mentioned before, the water pressure in my house is basically non-existent and filling a bucket in my bathroom takes about 30 minutes. To speed up the flushing process I just leave the large bucket, filled with water, in my bathroom at all times…well, except for when I’m bathing or washing clothes of course!

Laundry Bucket: Last but not least, I use my large bucket to rinse my clothes after they have been scrubbed with soap in yet another bucket. After hand washing all my clothes with a hefty amount of Tide, I place all the soapy clothes in my large bucket [which has for this purpose been filled with clean cold water] in order to rinse them out before hanging them up on the lines.

I guess technically I could buy three different buckets but I am clearly never doing all three of these activities at once, and my 3-in-1 bucket saves me space and money, and gives my momma a good laugh! Next month I will be moving sites [more information to come] to a large coastal city in the North of Morocco called El Jadida. Because El Jadida is eight hours North of my current site, it pains me to say that I may finally have to invest in a shower, seeing as the temperature there is probably much much colder. Nevertheless, my bucket will accompany me and will perhaps just become a 2-in-1 bucket.

Stay tuned for VSN training, IST, and “the Big Move!”

☮ & ♥ from Morocco!

“Hey Lindsay, so what exactly are you doing over there in Morocco?”

Just about everyday I get questions regarding what it means to be a Peace Corps Volunteer. What am I doing? Where am I working? Who am I working with? etc. So in an attempt to prove that I am not simply traveling and partying in Morocco I figured I would take a little time to explain my situation over here in North Africa.

 First of all, Peace Corps Volunteers in Morocco now work solely under the Ministry of Youth & Sports. In the past PC also provided volunteers specializing in Small Business Development, Environment, and Health, however, to meet an ever-growing demand for english teachers and youth programming, PC Morocco is currently transitioning away from the aforementioned specializations and as of 2012 bringing only youth development volunteers into the country. As YD volunteers our primary task is to teach English classes in the Dar Chebeb [which literally translates to House of Youth]. In Morocco, in order to graduate from lycee [high school], students in their final year must take and pass a baccalaureate level english exam. Translation… a very difficult english exam for which most students are poorly prepared. As a secondary job, volunteers are encouraged to create and implement programs in the Dar Chebeb for students and adults. This is often “the fun part” for Peace Corps Volunteers as we are able to incorporate our own interests and also able to break away from our monotonous daily teaching schedules. And now that that is explained I guess I’ll cut to the chase and explain exactly what I am doing in my site…

  1. English Class: I currently teach 3 [2 hour] classes, twice a week for college & lycee students: (1) beginning english class, (2) beginning english grammar class, and (3) advanced grammar class for baccalaureate students
  2. Conversation Class: after about two weeks in site I was approached by a few men about starting a conversational english class. These men speak english well and simply want to work on pronunciation and fluency. This is my favorite class because my students read aloud articles, poems, or novels, after which we go over words they do not understand or words they may have pronounced incorrectly. Oftentimes they bring articles about Morocco which has been a great way for me to better understand the history, culture, festivals of my new host country.
  3. Running Club: I started a running club mainly because as a woman in Morocco I am not free to run outdoors alone, and there is no gym right around the corner. My nedi dyal jra meets twice a week for about two hours
  4. Women’s Fitness: I teach women’s conditioning classes twice a week in the dar chebeb. This is an important class for the women and girls in my community as it is quite literally the only means of physical exercise available to them here in Gfifat. In the larger cities there are gyms for women, however, my town is small and conservative, meaning that many of the women leave their homes only to shop for groceries at the souq.
  5. C.L.I.M.B. [Creating Leadership in the Mountains and Beyond]: C.L.I.M.B. is a six month-long leadership program that culminates with student participants traveling to and climbing the highest mountain in Morocco: Mt. Toubkal. The program was developed by the previous [and first] volunteer in Gfifat and it was her wish [as well as our community's] that C.L.I.M.B. be continued and expanded. Currently myself and the two other participant sites are working on our grant proposal to be submitted in February.
  6. At-Risk-Youth: in the near future I plan on working once a week at an orphanage in my souq town [about 20 minutes away by mini-bus], and once a month at a center for drug-addicted youth in Taroudant [1 hour away by taxi]. I had expressed an interest in working with at-risk-youth in my placement interview, and was extremely fortunate to have been placed in an area with so many active organizations

So that’s it for now! My long-term goal once my language improves is to form a culture club in which each month club members will study the history, language, food, music, and culture of a different/ significant area or city in Morocco. I hope to receive a grant for this program that will enable me, at the end of my service, to take my students to each of the important Moroccan sites previously covered. Kind of like a “Moroccan’s Discovering Morocco” type club! It is interesting to me that so many students have yet to see Morocco outside of their own towns, and it would be an honor for me to provide such an important educational and cultural experience to my students! Inshallah it works out!

 Unfortunately I can’t be sure that each volunteer is presented with as many work opportunities as my site has provided me, as each site [and volunteer for that matter] is different…all I can say is that I have been extremely fortunate so far! 

Other than working, I am still studying Arabic with my tutor once a week in Huwara [my souq town], taking bi-monthly trips to the beach in Agadir, and enjoying the company of the volunteers in my region. As of now…no complaints!Stay tuned for New Years Resolutions, In Service Training, and that always looming future break down!

 ☮ & ♥ from Morocco!

 

Sorry for being M.I.A this past month! This whole integration process has left me with little to no energy for things like reading, blogging, etc. I promise to get back into the swing of writing after New Years! As for right now though, I just wanted to give a huge shukran to everyone who has sent me letters, postcards, and packages from the States! It means so so much to me, and you can’t even begin to understand how exciting it is to get mail!

☮, ♥, and thanks from Morocco!